Milngavie – Fort William
88.25 miles
6.0 mph average
14:42 ATM
About bloody time I got an update in here. In April I set off for a 3rd attempt at the West Highland Way (2nd by bike) joined by Derek, Christine and David. The plan was to stay in hostels and do it over 3 days, which should make it less of a struggle and more an adventure to be enjoyed.
Initially we planned to stop in Inverarnan then Kinlochleven but forgetting that it was the easter holidays we left it too late to book so all accommodation in Inverarnan was fully booked. Luckily, for some reason I looked at the Inversnaid Bunkhouse website despite knowing fine well it had closed down. Only, the website didn’t mention that. So 2 phone calls and we discovered they had reopened – so now the plan was Milngavie – Inversnaid – Bridge of Orchy – Fort William.

Day 1
Milngavie – Inversnaid
34 miles
Day 1 started off well. Knowing we were only going to Inversnaid was good as we didn’t have to rush at all. We made it to Drymen quickly and stopped for lunch in the Winnock Hotel. Then we decided NOT to do conic hill as it’d take a lot of time and effort and there was no point tiring ourselves out on day 1, especially for something we can easily ride from home. Taking the road meant Balmaha only took about 15-20 minutes and we carried on without stopping to head towards Rowardennan. There are a few tricky sections of steep steps so we soon became tired, and glad we’d skipped Conic Hill.


By this point in the day I’d noticed a new clicking sound coming from somewhere on my bike, around the pedals/cranks/bottom bracket area. Apart from the 3 or 4 steep climbs the path between Balmaha and Rowardennan is mostly good fun with enough roots and bumps to keep it entertaining. Even Christine was proving surprisingly capable on a mountain bike! We stopped for another break at the picnic benches in Rowardennan and we all new some dull, nasty fireroad climbs lay ahead.
Not long after starting off the diagnosis for my mechanical became certain. My bottom bracked was fucked. It jammed in place and I couldn’t pedal forwards! Back-pedaling managed to loosen it up and get it going again but it wasn’t looking good for the 65 or so miles still to go. Whatever was going to happen, we had to get to Inversnaid before seeing a road again so ploughed on without too much problem.

As it approached 5 o’clock it was clear that my bottom bracket was in severe danger of dying completely at some point over the 3 days. Possibly in the middle of nowhere, but definitely resulting in another failed West Highland Way attempt. I called home and convinced my parents to pick up a bottom bracket in town and drive out to Inversnaid that night. I just had to call the bike shops and see who has what in stock. I’d never have guessed finding a 168×113mm ISIS bottom bracket would have been so difficult, but thanks to Gear I was able to get one for my mum to collect.
So after about 30 minutes of phone call we were back on the bike again, in the pissing rain. Got to the Inversnaid hostel somewhere between 6 and 6.30 and all got changed for dinner. With its new owners the hostel is much the same as when I was there before – great food and a very nice main seating area upstairs, I’d definitely recommend it.
After dinner my parents arrived, armed with a £29.99 Gussett ISIS BB and a box full of tools so I got to work removing my cranks etc.
2 problems:
- Neither of my bottom bracket tools would would fit onto the lockrings to allow me to remove my BB. Apparently Shimano BB tools have thicker outside edges and will not fit over splined axles.
- I didn’t have an ISIS BB in the first place. Turns my bike came with FSA Powerspline.
So the best I could do was grease everything up and hope that it lasted for the next 2 days.
Day 2
Invesnaid – Bridge of Orchy
26 miles
Day 2 was to be our shortest day, but we knew it’d take a long time due to first section alongside Loch Lomond. All of us with the exception of David had crossed it before. Loch Lomondside is pretty much a 4-mile carry from about 1km after Inversnaid to Doune Bothy. Up and over rocks and through all sorts of small gaps… I’ve probably detailed it more on the blog from my last WHW trip.


What surprised me is how little of the section leading up to the campsite at Inverarnan is actually bikeable. Or bikeable by our whole group at least – there were big divisions in the levels of our technical skills.
After leaving the hostel just after 10 it must have been about 3 by the time we made it to the pub on Beinglas Campsite for lunch. A distance of about 5 miles. Derek had the first mechanical of the day with a puncture.

After a well earned rest and lunch at Beinglas we set off just after 4. We climbed uphill on a fairly decent landrover track and started making a bit of progress for the day. Until mechanical – David’s chain snapped.

Having never (successfully) fixed a chain on the trail before I wasn’t sure how this would pan out. But I used the chaintool on my Topeak Hexus for and it was superb! Much better than either of the 2 in my toolbox at home and we were moving again within 10 minutes.
The miles seemed to be dragging in after here. It took ages to get to the turnoff for Crianlarich, passing the Falls of Falloch on the way. We debated taking the road from Crianlarich to Tyndrum, but Derek remained determined not to. Probably a good decision, as the undulating path through the forest shortly after was one of the best sections of the day. It would have been even better without more mechanicals: my front brake pads ran out and me and derek had a broken chain each.
I couldn’t help but feel that progress was very very slow for the rest of the way, and Tyndrum seemed to take forever to come. We eventually got there sometime after 8. Knowing that it would be dark not long after 9 and that we had 7 hilly miles to Bridge of Orchy we had a bit of a dilemma. We spent about 30 minutes arguing and then discussing the possibility of a bed for the night in Tyndrum. The hostel was trying to work out a way to fit the 4 of us in when we saw a train at the station behind us. That was Tyndrum lower, but the hostel owners told us there was one due in 5 minutes at Tyndrum Upper.
We had 5 minutes to find our way to Tyndrum upper and get train to Bridge of Orchy. After going the wrong way then asking 2 sets of people for directions we saw the long path up the hill to the station. As I let the charge up, my chain snapped! There must be something in the mud here – FOUR CHAIN SNAPS IN ONE DAY!
Luckily for us a group of tourists had been standing at Tyndrum Lower, looking for Upper. The driver called ahead so the train we wanted was waiting for them and we made it.
We got to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel in time for last food orders and had a great dinner. Quite reasonably priced too compared to the extortionate breakfast the next morning. With my bike needing a change of brake pads and a fix of chain things weren’t looking good for making it to Fort William the next day. Given the slow progress of day 2, attempting to make the 35 miles to Fort William (with the 2 biggest climbs on the route) in time for the train at 7.50 didn’t seem too sensible. We opted to get up early and bike as far as the Kingshouse hotel, with the intention of turning back if time didn’t look good.
Day 3
Bridge of Orchy – Fort William
35 miles
With a lack on confidence in reaching the next day nobody seemed as eager to get up and going as they did the night before. We sat for a while making the most of our breakfast buffet and David decided he’d get the train to Fort William and then cycle to Fort Augustus for his lift home. After changing my pads and chain the rest of us left the hotel at 10:20.
Knowing time was tight we all moved fast. No stops at all until Ba Bridge for a few photos. We had the wind behind us over Rannoch Moor which helped us a lot. We made it to the Kingshouse Hotel for 12:20, which is a huge improvement in pace from the day before!


After a quick lunch it was on again and we headed towards the Devil’s Staircase. I loved the path leading between Kingshouse and the staircase. Rocky enough to be great fun and a little bit technical, but overal not to hilly. Combined with the Rannoch moor crossing it was probably the most enjoyable part of the way.
So to the base of the Devil’s Staircase. Carrying up was tiring, but it didn’t take too long at all. Then this was the section I’d been looking forward to most on the whole trip. The legendary descent on the other side of the Devil’s Staircase! Soon after starting off Derek had a puncture on one of the waterbars. I was able to pop over about 1/2 of them so it wasn’t too bad.


I was surprised it wasn’t all downhill from here – there were a few short uphills to mix it up a bit. The final descent is probably the rockiest of the lot. Good fun but for some of it I was a bit cautious on given that I didn’t want to total my BB this close to the end or fall and break any bones either. It turns to a road and the rest of the descent was slightly disappointing tarmac to Kinlochleven. Overall it wasn’t quite as amazing as I’d hoped, given the effort it takes to get up there. I much preferred the flatter sections just before the staircase!
We didn’t stop at Kinlochleven. Derek pushed us hard, knowing there was a lot of climbing ahead. The climb out of Kinlochleven was the worst section of the entire trip for me. Very tiring and not rideable. A push up the hill without the nice scenery of the Devil’s Staircase. Once we got to the top it seemed a long and drab road to Fort William too. Eventually when we were getting close we noticed the West Highland Way markers indicated a split. A map showed us an alternative route to Fort William by road, rather than up a long hill into a forest. To help our timing we took the road. It was hilly too and felt much longer than the 6 miles indicated but eventually we made it to Fort William. About 6.30. Plenty of time to cycle to the main finish point for a photo then a quick dinner before the train home to Glasgow!

As always, lots more photos on Flickr.